Naples - 9/30/10 |
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We landed almost an hour early after a long slow glide along te coast at dawn into Fumico. Walked around a bit; had nice pizza at The Bellini in Piazza Bellini, came back and sat around pool. Then some rest and out again to Piazza Dante and anti-pasti and pasta at Leon d'Oro while watching big soccer game between Napoli and Buchrest in early round of European Cup. |
Naples - 10/1/10 |
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Slept like a stone. After breakfast got some more sleep then off to Sante Chiara, followed by a meandering walk to Duomo and Minutolo chapel, and later the baptistry. |
Ercolano - 10/2/10 |
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Taxi to Ercolano. Another hot day walking around the ruins. Very nice stuff, actually, but hot. Back to the hotel mid-afternoon to clean up and have lunch. |
Naples - 10/3/10 |
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Another warm day and we did not win the lottery. (No one did.) Late morning a cab to Capodimonte. Wonderful, although we didn't see everything. Certainly hit the highlights of renaissance and baroque panting. We had lunch at Zi Teresa. Walked up to the Galleria Victor Emmanuel I, which was itself open though all the shops were closed |
After nice rest we walked up Via Toledo and had terrific gelato at Fantasia Gelato; planned a semi-off day for tomorrow. Back to some churches. |
Naples - 10/4/10 |
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Hottest day yet. Interior of Gesu Nuovo was well worth the morning walk, however. Baroque spectacular hiding behind the facade. And in all the Jesuit glory, the St. Dr. Giovanni Moscati relics, votives and whatever. Superstition still rules the church, at least in Napoli. No photos, alas. Naples Underground interesting; and exhausting. Getting ready for dinner. Went to one of the few local restaurants still open on a Monday. Food ok. Beer better. |
Naples - 10/5/10 |
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Last full one in Naples. Napoli. Neapolis. Dorothy documents Graffiti. |
Farewell to the Costantinopoli - 10/6/10 |
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Check out and then a road trip, which was pleasant but was uneventful; Vincenzo the driver was a suave handsome guy from the Spanish Quarter who married a niece of Renato, hence his job. We listened to lovely Neopolitan music on the road. |
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The Terrace at La Tonnarella - 10/7/10 |
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More or less a rest day; making video on the terrace. Down into town to check out harbor. Then back into town for a light supper at Pizzaria Aurora in the square, which was actually quite good. Appetizers, and soup, with Bob getting nice Ravioli, and with Dorothy and I splitting profiterole with heavy chocolate. Back at the hotel we accepted a 'free' bottle of house white which had been offered as a make-up gift, and stayed up probably too late. |
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Excursion to Capri - 10/8/10 |
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Anyway early breakfast and off to the boat to Capri. Nice boat ride and then long lines to ride the funicular up to Capri town from the harbor. Got there and had lengthy photo-op, then lunch (as recommended by Frommer) at Da Gemma overlooking the bay. |
On to Rome - 10/9/10 |
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A few farewell attempts at beauty shots of the Bay of Naples, then off to Rome under the rough hand of Mario, our last driver. Ponte Sisto is posh and sophisticated compared to where we've been. A/C actually works, for example, although it has been clouding up and cooling off for the last 24 hours. Bob and I visited Santissima Trinita da Pellegrini right near hotel where Maryann later went to church. |
Rome - 10/10/10 |
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Walked to Capitoline, nice route skirting Palatine and Teatro San Marco. Visited Chiesa di San Nicola in Carcere along the way. Also watched a passing parade of Alfa Romeo Spyders. Got up to Capitoline where there were many brides and grooms being photographed; the office for civil licenses is next to the museum. Brides and grooms everywhere! 10-10-10, after all. Santa Maria in Tratevere, with nice mosaic interior. The square outside is a mini Piazza Navonna in tone and there was an accordionist playing Roll Out The Barrel. Then a trek to find St Cecelia, which is literally hidden and we had to walk around 360 degrees to find the entrance to the courtyard. There was a wedding in progress (of course) but we waited it out and say the famous sculpture of the dying St. Cecelia. |
Rome - 10/11/10 |
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Another walk in Travestere, followed by a pleasant dinner with Marzia and her husband. Expensive but good food in the Ghetto at Al Pompiere |
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Rome - 10/12/10 |
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Off to Galleria Corsini in the AM; followed by walk and lunch at Gino al Funari. Now resting and starting to think about packing. Dorothy packed and I slept. Then back out to discover the whole elegant area around Palazzo Farnese/French Embassy. I guess we'll have to come back... |
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